All Maven optics come with an unconditional lifetime warranty. If your optic becomes damaged or is at all defective (not including deliberate or cosmetic damage that does not hinder product performance), contact us immediately for repair or replacement. We don’t care where or when you bought it or if it was your fault or not – if it says Maven, we will take care of it.

Feel free to contact us with any questions you may have concerning repairs or warranty issues at: sales@mavenbuilt.co.uk

We use premium Japanese components for S, B, and RS Series optics. The S Series and B Series are assembled in a military standard (MIL-SPEC) facility in San Diego, and are then shipped to our headquarters in Lander, Wyoming where we inspect and test for quality assurance. The RS Series is assembled in Japan, and the C Series are assembled in the Philippines. Once assembled, they are shipped to our headquarters where each batch is sample-tested for quality assurance. 

We use the best glass available in our optics. In our S, B, and RS Series optics, we utilize the finest optical components available from Japan. In our C and CM Series, we use a combination of key Japanese components along with other optical elements from China, and the CS Series utilizes all Chinese components. In all of our optics we plan and build an overall optical system tuned to be the best performance available for the price.

The C Series is a mid-level optic, while the B Series is a high performance, elite-level optic…

B Series: Contrast, edge to edge clarity, resolution, light transmission, larger sweet spot – across the board, the B Series has a ~5-10% increase in performance. The internal optical system uses a higher grade of glass throughout the entire unit. All glass is produced in Japan. Units are produced individually and undergo a more rigorous inspection. Overall, they are larger and weightier with a magnesium frame and feel more substantial in the hands.  These compete against the best optics in the market.

C Series: Contrast, edge to edge clarity, resolution, light transmission, smaller sweet spot – across the board, the C Series has a slight decrease in performance, though still exceptional. This will be most noticeable when spending longer time behind the glass. The internal optical system uses a mix of glass grades and coatings. While the B Series are produced and built individually, the C Series is produced in the hundreds, and are sample inspected, rather than individually inspected. The polymer frame makes the C Series lighter than the B Series.

Specific features can be viewed on the individual product pages.

The fundamental difference is the type of prisms used in each. The B.1 uses a traditional Schmidt-Pechan roof prism and the B.2 uses the Abbe-Koenig prism. Due to the prism size the B.2 is slightly larger and heavier, but also offers 3% more end-to-end light transmission. The B.1 is slightly more compact and comes in the traditional 8×42 and 10×42 while the B.2 is slightly larger and comes in 9×45 and 11×45. Generally speaking, the larger 45mm will gather more light and will perform better in lower light conditions.

This is a very personal choice and will vary by each user depending on their needs and uses.

ADVANTAGES
Low magnification: larger Field of View (FOV), larger exit pupil (more light to the eye), easier to hold steady.
High magnification: more detail in distant subjects, objects will appear closer.

DISADVANTAGES
Low magnification: less detail in distant subjects, objects will not appear as close.
High magnification: smaller Field of View (FOV), smaller exit pupil (less light to the eye), can be difficult to hold steady (hand shake will be magnified and more apparent).

Each binocular (except for the C2, which comes with ocular lens covers only) comes with lens covers for the objective and ocular lenses, a soft storage bag suitable for cleaning the lenses, and a padded newoprene neck strap.

Each spotting scope comes with lens covers for the objective and ocular lenses and a soft storage bag suitable for cleaning the lenses.

SHR-W Reticle (MOA) MOA-2 Reticle (MOA)

Duplex (MOA) SHR Reticle (MOA)

MOA-2 Reticle (MOA) SHR-W Reticle (MOA) SHR-MIL (MIL)

MOA-2 Reticle (MOA) SHR-W Reticle (MOA) SHR-MIL (MIL)

SHR-W Reticle (MOA) SHR-MIL (MIL) MOA-2 Reticle (MOA) SHR-W Reticle (MIL) CFR-MIL Reticle (MIL)

Each riflescope comes with a neoprene scope cover, ideal for field use and for storage while not in use.

Designed around holdover reticles, the stock turrets are capped and do not include a zero-stop. Our MOA and Custom ballistic turrets are designed to provide a zero-stop feature when properly installed. This zero-stop operation is a result of the turret mounting flush to the body of the scope vs. an internal mechanical setting.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!).Once your scope is adjusted to your satisfaction, you can reset the center point of the turret to zero if you desire. Using a large flat-head screwdriver or coin, turn the large screw on top of the turret counter- clockwise until the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks. Moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope! Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism, then tighten the turret by turning the large screw clockwise. Do not overtighten the screw.

No this scope does not feature a zero-stop.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!).Once your scope is adjusted to your satisfaction, you can reset the center point of the turret to zero if you desire. The RS.2 uses tool-less zero-reset turrets. To reset the zero mark, lift the turret until you feel a slight click – the turret should now free spin without engaging the adjustment clicks. Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism.

This Riflescope has a lockable zero-stop.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!). Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism, then re-tighten the turret by placing the top knurled portion back onto the turret, turning clockwise. Do not overtighten. Repeat the process for resetting windage. Adjusting the zero-stop: 1. Once zeroed, loosen the zero-stop ring screw with a small flathead screwdriver. 2. Turn the zero-stop ring until the ring sits firmly against the zeroed turret. 3. Use a small flathead screwdriver to lock the zero-stop into place.

This Riflescope features a mechanical zero-stop.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!). Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism, then re-tighten the turret by placing the top knurled portion back onto the turret, turning clockwise. Do not overtighten. Repeat the process for resetting windage. Adjusting the zero-stop: 1. Once zeroed, remove the top cap and slide the elevation turret off the scope 2. Using the included hex wrench loosen the three screws on the side of the zero-stop. 3. Slide the zero-stop down the elevation mechanism until it rests against the bottom of the turret base, rotate counterclockwise until the zero-stop pin touches the base pin. 4. Retighten all screws. 5. Replace the turret with the 0-mark aligned with the position indicator and replace the top cap.

This Riflescope features a mechanical zero-stop.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!). Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism, then re-tighten the turret by placing the top knurled portion back onto the turret, turning clockwise. Do not overtighten. Repeat the process for resetting windage. Adjusting the zero-stop: 1. Once zeroed, remove the top cap and slide the elevation turret off the scope 2. Using the included hex wrench loosen the three screws on the side of the zero-stop. 3. Slide the zero-stop down the elevation mechanism until it rests against the bottom of the turret base, rotate counterclockwise until the zero-stop pin touches the base pin. 4. Retighten all screws. 5. Replace the turret with the 0-mark aligned with the position indicator and replace the top cap.

This Riflescope features a mechanical zero-stop.

Resetting the turret to zero: Remove the top knurled portion of the turret by turning counter-clockwise. Once removed, the turret can lift and spin without engaging the adjustment clicks (note: moving the turret while it is still engaged with the inner mechanism will change the zero of your scope!). Once the turret spins freely, turn it either direction until the 0-mark lines up with the Zero Indicator facing on the ocular side of the turret base. Press down to reengage the turret mechanism, then re-tighten the turret by placing the top knurled portion back onto the turret, turning clockwise. Do not overtighten. Repeat the process for resetting windage. Adjusting the zero-stop: 1. Once zeroed, remove the top cap and slide the elevation turret off the scope 2. Using the included hex wrench loosen the three screws on the side of the zero-stop. 3. Slide the zero-stop down the elevation mechanism until it rests against the bottom of the turret base, rotate counterclockwise until the zero-stop pin touches the base pin. 4. Retighten all screws. 5. Replace the turret with the 0-mark aligned with the position indicator and replace the top cap.

We’ll use the RS.2 SHR reticle below as an example. Assuming one zeros the scope in at the highest power (10x) the measurement from the center of the reticle to the bottom hash mark is 20 MOA. If we change the magnification to 2x we can take the power (high power / low power) in this case 5 x 20 to get 100 MOA at 2x.